December 31, 2010: Budapest Jewish Synagogue

December 31, 2010: We decided to go see the Jewish synagogue downtown. This synagogue, built in 1859, is the second largest synagogue in the world (Only the synagogue in New York is larger.) During WW2, the synagogue served as the ghetto where all Jews were forced to live and not allowed to leave the premises. Many of them died there due to the crowded conditions and the war. In 1954, 2281 martyrs from the war were buried in the cemetery in the synagogue's courtyard. Since then, descendants have bought tombstones to place in the courtyard, but no one knows exactly who is buried where and when each person died. Therefore all tombstones are dated 1954, the date of the recognition of those who died in the synagogue.

Jewish Synagogue, Budapest

Jewish Synagogue, Budapest

Jewish Synagogue, Budapest

Jewish Synagogue, Budapest

The tour guide told us that at the time of the war, there were 800,000 Jews living in Budapest and that of these, only 200,000 survived the war -- the other 600,000 were sent to Auschwitz to die. In present day Hungary, no one knows how many Jewish people live in Hungary since in 1950, recording the religion of people in the census was outlawed. However, a rough estimate has it that today there are only 100,000 Jews living in Hungary, roughly 1% of the population. There are only three Jewish schools and three temples where they pray. At the temple we visited, there are only around 300 families in the synagogue's membership.

Jewish Synagogue cemetery

On the compound is a stainless steel weeping willow tree sculpture commemorating the Jews who died in the war. The tree trunk supports many branches the leaves of which are engraved with the names of some of those lost in the Holocaust. Looked at upside down, the branches resemble a menorah. 

Weeping Willow at Jewish Synagogue

Nearby is a tombstone that lists the names of others who helped Jews to escape to other countries, most notably Raoul Wallenberg from Sweden. Upon the discovery that Wallenberg had helped hundreds of Jews to escape to Sweden, the Soviet Union imprisoned him in Siberia and what happened to him after that has been unknown, although the Soviet Union recently released information that he had been executed, but no one knows what the charges were for the execution. No explanation is expected so I guess we'll never know.

Tombstone at Jewish Synagogue

Near that is a stained glass window which is designed with a flame intertwined with a snake, both commemorating the Holocaust.

Stained Glass window in Jewish Synagogue

After seeing the synagogue, we went downtown to shop and have lunch at a very nice Italian restaurant. Unfortunately, the central market closed early so we had to buy some food from a minimarket where there was very little food left to buy. I managed to find a pork roast, onions, and potatoes, so I think we'll be okay for the pork roast I had planned on cooking for New Years Day. Just no mushrooms for the gravy!


We returned home in the frigid weather (-5 degrees C = 23 degrees F). We had snacks for dinner since we were still full from our Italian lunch, watched "Dinner for One", and then around midnight, we heard fireworks being set off all over the city. I've heard that setting off fireworks is forbidden except on New Years Eve so everyone seems to take advantage of this. Looking out my 5th floor window (facing south) we could see fireworks across the horizon. There were even fireworks being set off just below us on my apartment's compound. The noise was evident for about one and a half hours (i.e., until 1:30 a.m.). Nevertheless, we did manage to fall asleep.


So much for 2010. I look forward to a good and prosperous New Year for us all. However, in reading some e-mails from friends, the politics in Hungary have become a bit worrisome. Starting January 1, 2011, a new law is effective whereby any media printing views opposed or inflammatory to the new government is subject to very stiff fines. The following Washington Post articles provide more information on the new laws and outsider thoughts.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/12/26/AR2010122601791.html

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/12/27/AR2010122702864.html?hpid=opinionsbox1

In the mean time, many of my friends are very concerned about the state of their government. I sure hope that things work out for all.


Until next year....